Axles, Axles, Axles...

Even the best car with the best wheels isn't getting to the winner circle without a good set of axles.

If you've ever taken a close look at a regular BSA Pinewood Derby® scout nail axle you would see just that... a nail. Out of the box they are not quite straight and the shaft is oval not round. There are rather large ridges on the inside edge where the head meets the shaft and deep grooves where the machine grabs the nail shaft and then SMASHES the end to form the head. This alone is an excellent way to slow a car down, but unfortunately there are even more defects working against speed.



We offer a couple of very fast SPEED AXLE alternatives as well as standard scout axles for you to tinker with. Check your race rules to see what is allowed. STRAIGHT, SMOOTH AND POLISHED AXLES GO FASTER.

Luckily, the axles don't have to rotate. So, as long as you have a straight, smooth and highly polished surface on the bottom of the axle where it contacts the wheel bore, you're in good shape.


IMPORTANT: The products and construction techniques described are all developed to improve the performance of your pine wood derby cars. Please consult your local racing rules as some of the methods and / or products may be not be allowed.TOP


Internet Content
Rating Association


MACHINED SPEED AXLES

Physics Lecture 4 - Do smaller axles really go faster? The answer may surprise you. Go ahead... Click.
I know you're curious..

SPEED AXLE III (set of 4)

These custom made axles are the fastest I have ever tested. A very slight smooth bevel on the inside of the head reduces wheel/head friction. Unlike the official Pinewood Derby® BSA scout axles, there is no "mold mark" on the inside of the head nor any "bumps" on the shaft. These are precision machined from scratch. The inside of the head and the shaft are perfectly smooth. Nickel plating provides a very hard surface that polishes beautifully (better than the Scout axle soft zinc plating) and provides a much lower coefficient of friction. (see independent test results at www.PinewoodDerbyPhysics.com)

"Graphite's Best Friend" A perfectly smooth, straight and polished surface. A perfect marriage between axle and graphite. These are slightly smaller in diameter than the BSA Pinewood Derby® scout axles. But that's not why they're fast.

These may be polished (but not sanded) for maximum speed. Be sure to remove any waxy residual left over from polishing.

These axles are designed for the new Scout wheels but will also fit the old Scout wheels. These are FAST!
Check your rules for legality.TOP

Item #H50

$2.00


OFFICIAL BSA AXLES

It's interesting to note that the reduction of surface contact area is NOT the real benefit. Your P.S. I. doesn't go away. It's just concentrated over a smaller area. Check it out:

µ=F/W

It's really a cool phenomena. Click on FRICTION 101 for an easy to understand and eye-opening explanation.


PRECISION LATHE TURNED and GROOVED BSA SCOUT AXLES
(set of 4)

I found that the graphite performs best on a smooth, hard and polished surface (like the speed axle III). But, there is a need for an Official BSA nail. So, after several design iterations, I ended up with a shape that eradicated the burrs and crimp marks while maximizing the beneficial effects of the LubeGroove™.

These are made from the OFFICIAL BSA PINEWOOD DERBY® SCOUT AXLES right out of the box. They have been precision turned with a grooves that removes the nail forming marks from the shaft and the metal flash from the inside face of the head. The inside face of the head is slightly beveled back and polished to reduce the contact area with the wheel face. These are STRAIGHTEND, SMOOTH, POLISHED, and READY TO GO. I prepare the axles with a 2000 grit wet sand and a quick final buff with red rouge before packaging. If you wish (and I would recommend) you may apply a finer wet sand (3000+) finishing up with fine jewelers rouge. You can never be too shiny. Check out my 4000 Grit Polish Kit and the new 8000 Grit Polish Kit.
Pretty Slick!
Check your rules for legality.TOP

 

Item #H46

$9.95



 

 

No Room for Rumor...

The "LubeGroove™" is just a name I came up with for a grooved BSA nail. The benefit of a groove has absolutely nothing to do with the reduction of friction. It has everything to do with removing the inherent flaws in the nail so that we can use it as an axle.Those who make claims like "Lube Reservoir", "Anti-Friction Groove" and "Reduces Friction" are simply perpetuating myth and hearsay. In fact, if you use this feature as a "Graphite Storage Bin", as some claim, you may actually scratch that bore you spent so much time polishing. When you come across a competitive product with claims like "REDUCE FRICTION" and "ANTI-FRICTION" and "ELIMINATE FRICTION", give them a call or drop them an email and ask them "How, exactly, can a groove in the axle reduce sliding friction on a surface when the load has not changed?". The short answer is "IT CAN'T". All you have done is redistribute the load over a smaller area (increased your psi)The nail shaft is not rotating. It is sliding on the wheel bore. If your surfaces are not properly prepared and mated it will grind the graphite particulates into the wheel bore increasing the coefficient of friction.

Here's why I do it - The nail is neither straight nor round (luckily it does not have to rotate). I cut the groove at the base of the head to completely remove the flash that continues onto the shaft. At the same time I bevel and polish the inside face of the head to reduce the contact area with the wheel face. The second groove on the shaft removes the crimp marks left over from the nail forming process which conveniently fall right in the middle of the wheel bore. As I stated, the nail is neither straight nor round. So it would be very difficult for the shaft to make the preferred continuous and smooth contact with the wheel bore. The reason I remove this area is to create two polished pads to make sliding contact with the bore. This is preferable to having a longer, continuous surface that is not straight enough to make the proper contact with the wheel bore. It's also much more forgiving for stability ( think of how an "H" cut wheel is more forgiving on a less-than-perfect track). It is also much easier that trying to force the nail perfectly straight.

The key to benefiting from this design is in the preparation of the axle and the bore to create two smooth and polished surfaces coated with a film of graphite that is laid down is a way that provides a continuous monomolecular layer of lubricity that is both smooth and durable.

YOU WILL NEVER SEE A GROOVE IN MY CNC MACHINED H50 SPEED AXLES -

IT DRIVES ME NUTS when people machine perfectly smooth axles from scratch with an expensive lathe so they are smooth and straight only to destroy them by cutting a groove in an otherwise near perfect surface. It's all because they believe everything they hear. If you are going to CNC machine an axle from sctratch the LAST thing you want to do is cut a groove in it!

Again, there is no one single element that will create a winning car. It is a combination of many interdependent measures. Axles are important. But they don't win races by themselves.

Whew! - Jerry


STOCK BSA SCOUT AXLES (set of 10)

For those builders who want to experiment with the Official BSA Pinewood Derby® Scout Axles, here is a package of 10. Joy. These nails will fit both the new and old Official BSA Pinewood Derby® wheels. These nails are about 0.087" diameter. It's tough to be exact as the nail cross section is not round.TOP

Item #H45

$1.25


OLD BSA SCOUT AXLES (set of 10)

I also have a limited supply of old Pinewood Derby® scout axles. These are about .092" in diameter. Again, this is only an approximate measure as the nail cross section is not round. These are to be used with the old (larger bore) BSA Scout wheel only. They will not fit the new BSA wheels. If your rules allow, you may turn these down for a better fit on the newer wheel bore. Hmmmmm..TOP

Item #H53

$1.25


AXLE POLISHING SUPPLIES


BASIC POLISH KIT

Highly polished axles are an absolute must for the fast Pinewood Derby® racer. Kit contains a generous bag of pumice polishing powder, strips of wet/dry sandpaper, crocus cloth, a small file and instructions. Do not use with H46 or H50 axles (download instructions)

TOP

With File - Item #H05

$2.75


Without File - Item #H06

$1.75


 

 

 

 

 

.The kit includes:

• 500 grit polishing paper
• 1000 grit polishing paper
• 1500 grit polishing paper
• 2000 grit polishing paper
• 2500 grit polishing paper
• 4000 grit polishing paper
• 6000 grit polishing paper
• 8000 grit polishing paper

• .5 oz (aprox.) chunk of polishing rouge
• 2 application sticks
• Instructions (download instructions)

KICK IT UP A NOTCH

NEW 8000 GRIT AXLE POLISH KIT

 

This polishing kit takes the axle surface to a whole new level of shine. The final 8000 grit polishing paper is equivalent to a 1 micron surface finish. This prepares the surface for the final thin film of graphite that will create the ideal mating surface to a properly prepared wheel bore.

Each sheet of polishing paper is a generous 5.5" x 4.5" (aprox). This is more than enough to do the job for 3 sets of axles.TOP

Item #H10A

$9.95

READ BEFORE YOU BUY

IMPORTANT: The coarser grits (less than 2000 grit) are NOT for use with my H50 Speed Axles. The Nickel plating is too hard and too thin.
H46 LubeGroove™ Axles
are finished to a 2000 right out of the box. You can improve the performance by continuing to polish the surface up to 8000.


March 29, 2008


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